My first trip to Tenerife, years ago, was all about exploring Mount Teide, the colossal volcano that looms over the Canary Islands. Driving a car myself from sea level to its nearly 13,000-foot summit and back in a single day was exciting in itself, but it was only the beginning. The island’s geological wonders had hooked me, and I promised myself I’d come back to explore more of what it had to offer. This time, I set my sights on Cueva del Viento, a sprawling lava tube system in Icod de los Vinos that promised a journey into the Earth’s fiery past. At 17 kilometers long, it’s one of the world’s most impressive volcanic tunnels.
The Allure of Lava Tubes
Lava tubes are nature’s underground sculptures, formed when molten lava flows down a volcano’s flank during an eruption. The outer layer cools and hardens into a crust, while the still-liquid lava inside keeps moving, like water through a pipe. When the eruption stops, the lava drains away, leaving a hollow tunnel that can stretch for kilometers. Over thousands of years, erosion, tectonic shifts, and occasional collapses shape these tunnels into intricate networks. Cueva del Viento, formed 27,000 years ago by lava from Pico Viejo (a neighboring volcano to Teide), is a prime example of this process. Its name, “Wind Cave,” comes from the natural air currents that flow through its openings, creating a breeze that sets it apart from stuffier cave systems.
Some tubes, like Hawaii’s Kazumura Cave, stretch over 65 kilometers, making Cueva del Viento’s 17 kilometers seem modest by comparison. But its three-tiered structure—upper, middle, and lower levels—adds a complexity that’s rare even among lava tubes. Only the upper level is open to the public, with the lower levels reserved for researchers due to their vast chambers and fragile ecosystems.
Ancient cultures saw them as sacred or mystical—pathways to the underworld or the realm of gods. In Hawaii, locals believed lava tubes were carved by Pele, the volcano goddess. In the Canary Islands, stories whispered of tunnels leading to hidden realms. Even modern science finds them intriguing: their stable, sheltered environments make them prime candidates for hosting life on planets like Mars or the Moon. On Earth, they’re home to unique creatures—tiny insects, spiders, and mineral-eating bacteria—that thrive in the dark, adapted to a world without sunlight.
Planning the Visit
The cave is a protected site, and you can’t just wander in. Tours are managed by the Cueva del Viento Interpretation Center in Icod de los Vinos, a small town on Tenerife’s northern coast. I booked my spot online about a month ahead, paying €20 for a two-hour guided tour (children and locals get discounts).
The website warned that tours fill up fast, especially in summer, so early booking is a must. The center’s rules were clear: wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes (the cave floor is uneven), bring a light jacket for the cool interior, and leave large bags behind. They provide headlamps, but I packed a small flashlight just in case.
Our journey began at the Interpretation Center, a sleek building with a museum-like setup. Before the tour, we watched a 10-minute video on the cave’s formation and Tenerife’s volcanic history, complete with diagrams showing how lava tubes form. Displays showcased fossils and rock samples, including a chunk of basalt with embedded olivine crystals that glinted under the lights. The staff handed out headlamps and gave a quick safety briefing: stick with the guide, watch your step, and don’t touch the walls to protect the cave’s delicate ecosystem.
From the center, a 15-minute van ride took us to the trailhead, winding through Icod de los Vinos’ narrow streets and past vineyards and banana plantations. The hike to the cave entrance was a 20-minute trek through a lush forest of Canary pines and laurel trees, their roots twisting over volcanic rock.
The air was fresh, scented with pine and earth, but the path was uneven, with loose stones that demanded attention. Along the way, we passed several “skylights”—holes where the cave’s roof had collapsed, revealing glimpses of the darkness below.
These were fenced with barbed wire and metal cages, a stark reminder of the dangers: our guide mentioned past incidents where hikers fell into unmarked skylights before safety measures were added.
Stepping into the Cave
The entrance to Cueva del Viento was a rough-edged skylight in the rock, just wide enough for one person to pass. Stone steps, carved into the basalt and reinforced with metal, led down into the cave. As I descended, a cool breeze hit me, carrying a faint mineral scent. The guide explained that these skylights are crucial for ventilation, allowing air to circulate and keeping oxygen levels safe. Without them, the cave could become a deathtrap, as some sealed cave systems trap carbon dioxide.
The transition from forest to cave was abrupt. Sunlight faded within a few steps, and our headlamps became the only light source. The cave’s interior is a rugged, alien world. The floor was a chaotic mosaic of sharp basalt, with jagged protrusions that forced me to watch every step. The walls, sculpted by ancient lava flows, varied from smooth, rippled surfaces to rough, layered sections that looked like stacked slabs of stone. In some spots, the walls glistened with a thin film of moisture, reflecting our lights in faint sparkles. The air was a steady 15°C, cool but not cold, with a humidity that clung to my skin.
Our guide pointed out the cave’s geological treasures. In one section, we saw “lava stalactites,” finger-like formations where molten lava had dripped from the ceiling and hardened.
Another area had a “lava waterfall,” a frozen cascade of basalt that looked like it was still flowing. The walls bore crusty, wave-like patterns, remnants of the lava’s movement 27,000 years ago.
Some sections were so smooth and geometric—near-vertical walls with sharp angles—that they looked like tunnels carved by human hands. The guide explained that this was a natural quirk of fast-cooling lava, which can form almost architectural shapes.
Life in the Shadows
Fine spider webs stretched across crevices, home to small, pale insects adapted to the dark. The guide noted that the cave hosts unique microbes that feed on minerals in the rock, forming a delicate ecosystem that’s easily disrupted. Visitors are forbidden from touching the walls or leaving anything behind to protect these fragile inhabitants.
The most unforgettable moment came when our guide had us switch off our headlamps. The darkness was absolute, a thick, disorienting void that erased all sense of space. I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face or tell where the walls were. The silence was just as intense, broken only by the occasional drip of water echoing in the distance. For a few seconds, it felt like the world had vanished, leaving just the cool air and the faint mineral smell. It was a humbling reminder of how ancient cultures might have seen caves as gateways to another realm—places where the rules of light and sound no longer applied.
The Cave’s Hidden Depths
Cueva del Viento’s structure is a marvel in itself. The cave has three levels, formed as lava flowed at different depths during the eruption. The upper level, where we walked, was relatively narrow, with ceilings as low as 1.5 meters in some spots, forcing us to duck. The middle and lower levels, closed to the public, are said to have wider tunnels and chambers large enough to dwarf a house. Researchers occasionally explore these depths, mapping new passages and studying the cave’s geology and biology. The guide shared that the cave’s full 17-kilometer length includes countless side branches, some still uncharted.
The cave’s scale is impressive, but it’s not the longest in the world. That title goes to Kazumura Cave in Hawaii, which stretches over 65 kilometers. Still, Cueva del Viento’s multi-level structure and accessible location make it a standout. The guide mentioned that the cave’s deepest sections are prone to flooding during heavy rains, another reason public access is restricted. Even in the upper level, we saw signs of water’s influence—small pools in low spots and damp patches on the walls.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you’re planning to visit Cueva del Viento, here’s the rundown. Book your tour well in advance through the Interpretation Center’s website (cuevadelviento.net). Tours run several times daily, but morning slots (starting around 9 AM) are ideal for cooler weather and fewer crowds. The two-hour tour costs €20 for adults, €8.50 for kids (ages 5–12), and €5 for Canary Islands residents. Kids under 5 aren’t allowed, and the tour isn’t suitable for those with mobility issues or claustrophobia due to the uneven terrain and tight spaces.
Wear hiking boots or sturdy sneakers—the cave floor is brutal on flimsy shoes. A light jacket or fleece is a must; the cave’s 15°C temperature feels chilly after Tenerife’s warm sun. Long pants are better than shorts to protect your legs from sharp rocks. The center provides headlamps, but a small flashlight can be handy for extra light. Photography is allowed (no flash or tripods), so a phone or compact camera works best. The hike to the entrance is moderately strenuous, with loose rocks and a slight incline, so bring water and maybe a small snack for afterward.
The Interpretation Center is a great starting point, with exhibits and a gift shop selling postcards, books, and volcanic rock souvenirs. The guides are bilingual (English and Spanish), knowledgeable, and strict about safety and conservation. After the tour, spend some time in Icod de los Vinos. The town’s historic center is charming, with cobblestone streets, a 1,000-year-old dragon tree, and cafés serving local specialties like papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauce.
Tenerife may be known for its beaches and warm weather, but its volcanic formations hold a beauty of their own. Whether you’re a geology enthusiast or simply an adventurer at heart, the lava tubes of Cueva del Viento are an experience you won’t want to miss.
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